36 hours in Rome, Florence, and Milan
Surviving Italy's biggest cities on and off the beaten path, in less than 7 days
I mentioned recently the Euro hit parity with the U.S. dollar.
This means the humble dollar is neck and neck in value with the euro, when it used to cost $1.30 to buy a single euro.
Because of this and no more COVID travel restrictions, people are going buckwild with European vacation shopping.
Which is also why on my September trip to Italy, I saw (but mostly heard) a lot of Americans in the streets.
I was lucky however, because I traveled with a native Italian.
And this makes any travel exponentially better because you get the local flavors and insider access.
If you find yourself visiting Italy anytime soon and want to get a bit off the beaten path, then here are highlights of my trip to Italy.
How I got there: Emirates
I flew JFK to MXP (Milan Malpensa) on Emirates Business Class, which gets you a few perks, like…
Free airport transfer
In most major city hubs, up to a 50 mile radius to and from the airport.
If you opt for this service, then your pickup is set at 3 hours on the nose before departure.
This ensures you’re early for your flight, with time to spare in the lounge. Speaking of the lounge…
Board from the lounge
From JFK, you can board the plane directly from the lounge instead of heading back out into the terminal.
I was asleep for most of it, though from what I remember it was pleasant and comfortable, as expected on Emirates. You also get a cute Bulgari amenities bag (which has since replaced my longtime travel makeup bag).
After flying into Milan, I did a little week and a half detour to smaller Italian cities and Switzerland (another post, another time). Then, my Italian adventure began.
36 hours in Rome
How I got there: Italo train
Italy has two major train operators: Italo and Trenitalia. The former is privately owned (by a parent U.S. company) and the latter is state-owned.
If you’re weighing Italo vs. Trenitalia, then there aren’t many differences when visiting major Italian cities, though Trenitalia will likely take you to more regional, smaller cities.
Italo does have plush Poltrona Frau leather seats in business class. And if you’re wondering whether to choose the cabin option (for a +€.10 fare! That’s not a typo) versus standard business seats, pick the regular seats if you’re not a foursome.
Otherwise you may get stuck in close quarters with 2 strangers. But we got lucky and had the cabin to ourselves.
Where I stayed: Soho House Rome
Located next to La Sapienza Università Di Roma this is in a non-touristy mostly student neighborhood.
And it comes with all the comfy perks like the full range of cowshed products, strong hair tools, and the ability to chill and work in the main house with creature comforts like my fave mulled ginger tea.
Where I ate:
Lunch: Trattoria Al Moro
If you manage to get an indoors table in the circa 1920s wood paneled dining room, then you may bump into politicians, journalists, fashionistas, insiders, and locals.
Breakfast and Coffee: Forno Ottavi dal 1921
Steps from Soho House, try their delicious breakfast pastries and of course, a long espresso, al fresco in the garden just opposite.
Where I got inked: The Grim Reaper Tattoo
Why not? Under a 10-minute walk from Soho House.
Where I went off the beaten path:
No first visit to Rome is complete without the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Colosseum, and Vatican … but if you’ve been there and done all that, then check out Musei Capitolini, situated on a Michelangelo-designed hilltop in Campidoglio Square. The ancient sculptures are impressive, the square and museum are a unique treat, as are the views of the Roman hills.
If you’re into fine home decor and objects and antique rugs, then check out the beautiful, quiet, tree-lined Via Margutto:
36 hours in Florence
How I got there: Trenitalia
Where I stayed: Dimora Palanca, a boutique hotel walking distance of the train station
Where I ate:
Dinner: Trattoria Coco Lezzone
Hearty, simple Tuscan food in a family-run restaurant. Seems hit-or-miss with folks but again, your experience may be elevated if you’re in the company of Italians … and I was lucky to be with two.
Lunch: Alimentari sandwich shop
A super cute sandwich shop where you can top off your sandwich with a little sweet and an espresso.
Dinner: Trattoria Camillo
Simply the best fried zucchini flowers. Light, airy, even without cheese.
Where I did touristy things:
The Uffizi, natch. Yes, it’s still recommended to book your time slot online in advance. After soaking in all the Botticellis and masterworks, you can imagine yourself as a Florentine, caped and robed, doing business with the Medicis in the Piazza.
Where I went off the beaten path:
I had the pleasure of attending the Florence Biennale (think TEFAF art fair in New York, or an exclusive antiques-only Art Basel), where I saw hundreds of gallerists from around the world showcasing their antique wares in art and objets d’art.
36 hours in Milan
How I got there: Italo train
Where I stayed: Speronari Suites, a business boutique hotel in the city center, close to shopping, easy for taxis and Ubers, and with a pretty buzzy Argentinian restaurant downstairs to boot.
Where I ate:
Lunch: Il Salumaio
You’ll find few to no tourists in this elevated, refined spot popular with the locals.
Pastries: Marchesi
Where I did (less) touristy things: Pinacoteca di Brera
A gorgeous museum with a lean toward ancient religious art.
Where I went off the beaten path:
I was invited to a birthday party in Milan, which was cool, until I found out the dress code was Black tie.
Panic! Where was I going to find something suitable and ensure it was properly tailored in time?
Duh, I’m in Milan, and there is no better place in the world to be for a last-minute Black Tie event.
After racing to the most mobbed Zara I’ve ever seen in my life, hastily picking up a floor-length black dress, and also picking up a gorgeous dress not for the event at Gio’ Guerreri, I was feeling dejected … until I stumbled into Atelier Daniela de Souza.
Not only did I find a gorgeous satin jumpsuit with a deep v-neck, the lovely seamstresses and the Brazilian-born designer herself accommodated my tailoring needs and delivered the jumpsuit to my hotel within 2 hours.
Observations
Italy is a great place to visit if you’re about to go on a season of Alone. You can fatten up and take advantage of every pasta, gelato, and pizza opportunity that comes your way.
If you’ve seen the show, it’s pretty much all about fat.
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Until next time,
Shindy
On Instagram + TikTok
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